Rust is the real boss fight.

Front structure: strut towers, rails, and seams

Ask for photos of both strut towers from above and below, the inner wings, front chassis rails, radiator support area, and any seams near suspension pickup points. Look for swelling, uneven seam sealer, mismatched paint texture, fresh black coating, or repairs that look cleaner than the surrounding metal.

Small surface rust is not the same as structural corrosion, but overseas buyers need proof. A lift video with a bright inspection light is more valuable than a polished engine bay photo.

Sills, jack points, and floor edges

Sills and jack points can hide years of poor lifting, moisture, and repairs. Ask for straight-on photos, underside photos, and close-ups of the pinch seams. If the seller only sends exterior side shots, you still have not inspected the area that matters.

• Check both sides, not only the side that photographs well.
• Look for crushed jack points and uneven underbody coating.
• Ask whether the car has had sill repair or replacement work.
• Price unknown sill condition as a major risk.

Rear arches, rear screen, and boot floor

Rear arches and the rear screen surround can show bubbling, paint edge problems, and trim fit issues. The boot floor and spare wheel area can reveal old leaks or repairs. Ask for photos with trim lifted where reasonable, plus wide and close shots.

If the car has been repainted, do not panic, but do ask why. Quality repair work can be acceptable; unexplained paintwork and hidden corrosion are the issue.

Fresh underseal can protect or hide

Underseal is not automatically bad. The problem is when it appears fresh, thick, or selective, and there is no explanation of what was cleaned, repaired, or coated. Ask for before-and-after photos if possible.

The best answer is not always a perfect underside. The best answer is a transparent underside story with photos, receipts, and an inspector willing to point out flaws.